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Some knife throwers do not content themselves with searching through all stores for their perfect throwing knife, but go ahead and design their own. On this page, some of these homemade throwing knives will be presented.
Self made throwing knives
If you want to make your own, follow our instructions on how to build a throwing knife.
Kari Salonius from Finland. He works as a blacksmith and forges knives for friends in his free time. This piece is made out of Hardox, a metal that is often used for bulldozer scoop claws. It can`t be tempered but will not bend easily.
The knife is quite long (33cm) and heavy (400g), but the proportions are right, and the center of gravity is in the middle. About the ideal combination for longer distances. The edges are all rounded, as well as the end of the handle.
If you grip the handle, you naturally end up with your thumb coming to rest on the diamond-shaped swelling. The curved grip rests nicely in your palm. This could also be considered a disadvantage, as you can not vary your grip to accommodate for distance and personal preferences (especially the normal hammer grip with the thumb on the side is quite shaky here). The grip on the blade, which is very secure and full due to the curved blade, gives you full flexibility.
The blade is not sharp, of course. The knife has a thickness of 6mm and is getting thinner towards the tip, making it stick very well. The longish form of the tip also helps.
It is rather fun to throw this knife, with its good looks and flight characteristics.
In the follow-up version of the knife, Kari Salonius has changed an important point: The grip is not as wide, not curved any more but straight, and longer because the swelling moved two centimeters towards the tip. This now allows to grip the handle in a variety of different ways, giving more flexibility. A second swelling was added, but the so created valley can not be used as a rest for the thumb, as the finger will catch there on release.
Interestingly, the valley allows to throw the knife like a spear, just hold it there between index and middle finger with the thumb supporting the weight from below. Thrown properly, it will not turn but fly with the tip always facing the target. Not being designed for that spear style throw (in contrast to the Flying Knife), it is hard to get much power in it, so that it will only stick in soft wood.
The new design throws very nicely, only the tip is not made flat enough to penetrate the target easily.
Kari Salonius wanted a throwing knife that is acceptable in historical reenactment groups, thus it looks very much like a mountain-man hunting knife. The handle consists on two leather-slabs glued to the steel, then additionally fixed with copper rivets. The rawhide was sewn on while wet. The edge has been quenched, so that the hard steel there can be sharpened for camping tasks, while the softer spine will prevent the knife from braking at impact on the target.
With a length of 29cm and a weight of 434g, the knife is definitely of the heavier variety. The steel is 6mm thick, but narrows down towards the blade, test throws proved that it sticks very well. The distance for one full turn was 1.85m. Being almost center-balanced, it can be thrown from the handle (recommended) and from the blade. Surprisingly, from the same distance you can use both grips! This is because the sharp blade requires a deep blade grip that slows down the rotation.
This is the first throwing knife I would say can be used both for throwing and for camping chores.
Because not everybody has an own forge, the knife is made from a rather soft sheeting with a thickness of 5mm. It is 28cm long, weighs 294g and has its center of gravity in the middle. The edges could be rounded, but do not disturb. If you grip it by the handle, the thumb comes to rest on the edge between handle and blade, the rounded grip end not hurting your palm. Because the handle is not curved, it does not snuggle to your hand like with the knife of Kari Salonius. On the other hand, this gives you absolute freedom to vary your grip, you can even slide up on the blade without a spiky swelling hindering you. The blade grip is perfect.
The knife does look rather angular, some roundings would improve it. Also the tip is not getting flat enough, making it harder to stick the knife.
All in all, this knife is something for the thrower who wants full control over his tool: he can vary his grip in many ways, and does not need too much force for throwing. The little drawbacks mentioned could be eliminated in a future version.
Instructions how to make this throwing knife
After being satisfied with the burning fire-fakas, the Fire Gladiator started on a new project, the Gladiator Blades. This time, he did not do much planning beforehand, just put his hands to work, he wrote:
"I just took some 5mm-scrap iron sheet, and worked on the shape for 5 hours straight. Than hardened the material, and took it for some test throws. Afterwards, it was ground into final shape. For showing off, I had my knives galvanised at a friends workshop, using copper and nickel, which resulted in a nice surface energy. Hence, my gladiator blades are rustproof.
The throwing knives have a weight of 250 grams and are 180mm long. I throw them with a hammer grip, and when going for a full turn, I stand in a distance of 3.80m to the target. When throwing the blades at my thick oak rounds, I have to use quite some pressure in the throw and use a very clear motion. But in normal planks or wooden target walls, my Gladiator throwing knives stick very good."
This knife is entirely handmade. I started with the idea to make a throwing knife unlike others, with saw teeth in it.
As material, I used plain iron, 4mm thick, 3cm wide and 22cm long. After transfering my technical drawing to the iron, I defined the shape with a small angle grinder. Then I added holes in the handle and in the blade, which I extended to form the saw teeth.
Tempering was accomplished by putting the knife in coal, heating it until it glows, then dipping it in old oil, and putting it back into the coal (covered in glass wool), to let it cool down.
After some surface polishing came out this nice throwing knife. Because of the teeth, it can only be thrown from the handle. My preferred distance is around 4-5m.
David Bačnar, Croatia
I make my knives from Mild Steel (low carbon) sheet. They are 35.5cm long, 6mm thick and around 255g heavy, the center of gravity is nearly in the center. The blanks are laser cut to size and then I do some work on the point end and generally clean off any burrs. When they are up to that stage, and I am certain that no more metal needs removing they then go for heat treatment whereby they are heated in a salts bath to cherry red, and the carbon soaks into the red hot steel. When a millimeter depth of carbon is introduced (this takes a set time), the blades are quenched in oil until completely cool. The blades are then glass-hard on the surface to a millimeter depth, with a soft core. This prevents burrs from kicking up on the blade. Finally they are sand papered clean, and I fit my stick-on handles (those are rubber-stickers I just have to peel off the paper, I have them made at a sticker company).
The throwing knives' shape is the one that suits my throwing style best. That is No/-Quarter-/Halfspin throws! The shape allows easy sliding from the hand, both from the blade and the handle. The small hilt is cosmetic, and makes the knife more "daggery".Roy
A short note on Roy's special throwing style: He strives to reduce the rotation of his knives nearly to zero. There is no arch in his throw, he pushes the knife to the target similarly to the movement you would use to throw a very heavy ball (shotput in sports). The index finger rests on the spine of the knife, and it pushes down on it when the knife has halfway left the hand, to reduce the spin. With years of practice, Roy can throw no-spins from 5m and further.Articles for further reading: